Monthly Archives: June 2006

What’s pig got to do with it?

What’s pig, but a foodie-blog emotion?

I know, this ain’t a cooking blog, but one thing I do want to discuss here is using spirits in cooking. I’m just a novice here, but it should be fun to discuss what works well for us and what fails miserably.

One night last week, my lovely wife brought home a couple of nice pork chops from the Greenmarket. We had planned on grilling them over hard-wood charcoal, but the rains had other plans, so I started prepping them for the iron skillet. Jen recommended a bourbon reduction to glaze the chops, but as I seared the chops, I had another idea: pork chops and applesauce.

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MxMo: Apéritif

MxMo AperitifStimulate your palate with some fun apéritifs, courtesy of the fourth Mixology Monday (hosted this go-around by Jimmy Patrick of jimmy’s cocktail hour).

Jen and I wanted to try something a little different this time. Since we so often get apéritifs along with appetizers when we’re out a good restaurant, we talked about doing some food pairings. We talked for a couple of weeks about what we’d have and what we’d pair. I knew, for example, that I wanted to try Cynar (having previously only had it in Audrey Saunders’ Little Italy cocktail at Pegu Club), so we took our cues either from what I wanted to mix with or from what she was eager to cook.

I would then write up the boozy stuff for this site and MxMo, and she’d blog the foodie bits over at the food blog Gastronome. So there you go.

Now on to the pairings. (All photography by Jennifer Hess. You can view full-sized versions of these pictures, and others, in Jen’s photostream at Flickr, or you can read her writeup of the foodie stuff at Gastronome.)

First up, the Adonis cocktail with figs, stuffed with blue cheese, wrapped in serrano ham, and roasted in the toaster oven. Jen requested sherry, since it’s a classic pairing with figs and blue cheese, so I consulted my oracles to find a good sherry-based quaff. Difford’s Guide to Cocktails provided several options, and from them I chose the Adonis, a simple mix of sherry, vermouth, and orange bitters.

MxMo AperitifAdonis

  • 2 oz. dry sherry (Difford calls for Fino; we used Manzanilla)
  • 1 oz. sweet vermouth
  • 3 dashes orange bitters (I used Fee)
  • Orange twist, for garnish

Stir over ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass, and garnish with an orange twist.

cynar and chokesThat’s a good drink. I was surprised by its smokiness, though. Sherry never strikes me as being smoky on its own, but somehow with the vermouth and orange bitters, the drink was smoky, like a scotch cocktail. Strange, but a nice example of the alchemy that occurs in a cocktail glass.

Our second pairing was artichoke-a-riffic: artichoke hearts topped with crabmeat and roasted in the toaster oven. The pairing for that was simple: Cynar on the rocks with a slice of lemon. We both found the Cynar a little sweet on its own, so perhaps we’ll shake it into a drink next time.

Our final pairing was another cocktail, but it requires explanation. …

The night after our cocktail party, we went to Dressler, a new restaurant in South Williamsburg, Brooklyn. We’d been to Dressler once before–on its opening night, we sat at the bar, and ate while talking drinks and barmanship with the friendly bartender. On our second visit, we had a different bartender, but he was every bit as personable as the first guy had been.

So we sat at Jim’s bar and ordered drinks and food. After pouring us each a couple of fine drinks, he started prepping something interesting. I saw bourbon and bitters and something else I didn’t quite make out. Then he did something strange. He strained that in a flute and topped it with champagne! And as Jen and I looked at each other and remarked on how intriguing that was, he set it down in front of Jen! “Try this, on the house. It’s a Seelbach, I think you’ll enjoy it.”

Jim’s a mensch, and a damn good bartender. We did indeed enjoy it, and when Jen requested it to pair with duck rillettes, I knew yet again how smart my wife really is. The smoky bourbon and the champagne cut right through the fattiness of the duck. (The rillettes, by the way, were my concoction, from duck confit that I made in early spring.)

Seelbach cocktailSeelbach Cocktail

  • 7 dashes Angostura bitters
  • 7 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
  • 1 oz. bourbon
  • ½ oz. triple sec
  • 5 oz. chilled champagne

Technique: Rinse champagne flute with both kinds of bitters. Pour out most of the bitters, leaving a small amount in the bottom of the glass. Shake bourbon and triple sec over ice, and strain into flute. Top with champagne.

(The recipes I’ve seen for this call for shaking the bitters with the bourbon and triple sec. But Jim at Dressler rinsed the glass with them, and after mixing this once at home, I see why: the bitters overwhelm the cocktail if they remain fully in the drink. Either rinse the glass or shake the bitters, but cut back on the quantity.)

Oh, and in case you were wondering, these were indeed apéritifs. Even with all that food, we still managed to eat grass-fed tenderloins and a salad for dinner, with a nice Chianti Classico.

Pom Yumtastic

In “Drink to your health with pomegranates,” the Chronicle’s Leah Greenstein discusses the nutritional benefits of pomegranates and their growing inclusion behind the bar in fancier drinkeries. Many of the cocktails described therein sound good, but this one–oh man:

At Santi in Geyserville, the Regina Viola, or Purple Queen, illustrates the pomegranate’s flexibility. Though essentially a fall fruit — the pomegranate’s season is from August through November — it makes for surprisingly refreshing warm-weather drinks. The Regina Viola blends the clean flavors of muddled lemon balm and spearmint, tart Meyer lemon juice, house-made limoncello, pomegranate juice and citrus vodka for a complex and beautiful cocktail.

I’ll take two please. The article includes the drink’s recipe, and after our impending cocktail party (this Saturday), I plan to make some limoncello, which I’ll put to good use in trying to re-create this drink at home (assuming we can still get Meyer lemons, which seem to have gone out of season).

Also of note here is a description of Charbay’s upcoming pomegranate vodka, which sounds like a winner to me. I still can’t get over how much I enjoy their clear vodka, and I’m eager to test out their flavored offerings.

Gin-Gin Mule, recipe

I’m a little ashamed of this. The Libationgoddess’s original calls for homemade ginger beer, but I looked around the kitchen one hot weekend afternoon, wanting something cooling and refreshing that we could drink in the backyard.

I thought, “I have mint, I have limes, I have Reed’s (bottled) ginger beer, and I have gin. What the hell, I’ll do a bastardized Gin-Gin Mule.” So I checked the latest Difford’s Guide and found a recipe, which I’ll adapt here, after the break.

Gin-Gin Mule

  • 2 slices fresh ginger root
  • ½ tsp. sugar (I used turbinado)
  • 2 oz gin
  • ½ oz. lime juice
  • 3 dashes Angostura
  • Lime wedge, for garnish
  • Mint sprig, for garnish

Technique: Muddle ginger and sugar in mixing glass. Add whatever amount of ice you’re happy with. Pour remaining ingredients over ice/ginger. Cap with the metal part of the shaker, do the bump and grind. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass. (I double-strained, using a Hawthorne strainer and a fine sieve, because of all of the ginger bits.) Garnish with lime wedge and a mint sprig, all the while hating yourself because you don’t have the yummy candied ginger they use at Pegu Club.

Heresy: I found that muddling fresh ginger at least approximates the flavor of homemade ginger beer, when used in conjunction with a quality product like Reed’s. (Some wimpass ginger ale like Seagram’s? Don’t bother.)

Don’t get me wrong. Homemade is better because the flavors are heartier and fresher. And because I love homemade ginger beer, I’m jonesing to make some. But I might submit that Reed’s plus muddled ginger can get you a tasty gin-gin mule. Just don’t tell anyone at Pegu that I said so. I’d like to drink there again.